Cordyline Care

(This information pertains to C. australis, the commonly grown variety in Jersey. Please contact us for care instructions for other species.)

Growing on

Although growing from seed is easy, (and quicker than you think), most people buy 2-3 year old plants from garden centres. These can be potted into a larger decorative pot for the patio or placed directly outside into the garden. They are ideal as ’dot plants’ in a summer bedding scheme.

Although it can take a young C. australis  plant several years to reach 2-3 feet tall, if it is planted into the soil, with a good root run, it will then accelerate away to 10 feet in the next 5 years!

If kept in a pot, the growth will be restricted considerably, but as long as it is kept well watered and fed, the plant will remain healthy.

Feed pot specimens with a foliage feed (higher in nitrogen); garden plants will appreciate a dose of blood, fish and bone in the spring. The variegated types are less hardy and grow more slowly than the greens. The red/purples are also less hardy and susceptible to root and crown rots when grown in the wet and the soil should have plenty of grit added for drainage if your soil is at all heavy.

Planting position

Anywhere in full sun to partial shade, in well drained soil. Do not let them dry out, though, especially when in a pot. Line an unglazed terracotta pot with a plastic bag (with a hole in the bottom) to prevent it drying out too quickly. Keep a young plant out of the wind, which can shred the leaves; older plants will tolerate a beating by salt laden sou’westerlies surprisingly well. The lower leaves will drop annually, with just 2 or 3 years leaves retained at the top to produce the crown. Cut brown leaves off close to the stem, do not tear them off as this may damage the trunk.

Flowering

Cordylines can flower as early as 3 years after sowing, on a well-grown plant, but usually the first flowers develop after 5-7 years. The magnificent sprays of small scented flowers develop in May and June. The plant will then usually fork and grow several trunks from this point, each of these flowering each spring to fill the garden with a heady scent on still days. (Variegated varieties do not usually flower and only grow as a single stem)

The flower spikes should be cut down immediately after flowering as otherwise the seedlings will be popping up all over your garden. If you retain the heads on the plants to allow seeds to mature, cut off the stalks after collection as the stiff brown spikes can spoil the symmetry of the plant.

Winter care

Once established, the green varieties of C. australis will withstand several degrees of frost, easily down to –7°C. It tends to be freezing winds that do more damage as the leaves desiccate in the drying wind. If Cordylines are damaged, and the top dies back, they will frequently re-shoot from lower down the trunk, or at the base of the trunks. Also, do not plant in very wet areas as a cold wet soil (or pot) is much more damaging than a dry one when when the weather is frosty. This is particularly important for the purple leaved types that are very prone to root rot.

Pots with small plants can be removed to a frost-free greenhouse for the duration of a cold snap and keep them on the dry side, but do not cosset them, as exposure to cold weather acclimatises the plant to an extent. Cordylines in the garden can have their leaves gathered up and tied together to protect the growing point. This should then be wrapped in sacking or fleece. Don’t use plastic as the plant will sweat and may rot. It is obviously not practical to wrap large specimens; rest assured that they don’t die that easily, and wait until spring for signs of re-growth. Locally, only wrap for the duration of a cold snap otherwise mild and damp conditions inside the fleece may result in mould developing if the plant is wrapped for more than 4-6 weeks.

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